What Causes Skin Ageing?
Why do some people seem to age faster than others? And why might one person develop pigmentation while another notices wrinkles, sagging or changes in skin texture?
Skin ageing is much more complicated than simply “losing collagen”.
The way our skin ages is influenced by a combination of intrinsic ageing — the biological changes that naturally happen within our bodies as we get older — and extrinsic ageing, which is driven by external factors such as UV exposure, smoking, pollution and lifestyle.
While we can’t stop intrinsic ageing, many of the factors that accelerate extrinsic ageing can be reduced. Understanding the difference can help us make much better decisions not only about how we look after our skin, but also what clinical treatments will serve us best.
What is intrinsic skin ageing?
Intrinsic ageing, sometimes called chronological ageing, is the natural biological ageing process. It happens regardless of how good your skincare routine is, but genetics influence when and how prominently we experience these changes.
Collagen and elastin loss loss
Collagen is one of the main structural proteins within our skin and plays an important role in keeping it firm, strong and supported. But it reduces over time, and this contributes to thinner skin, fine lines, wrinkles and loss of firmness.
As we age, not only does our ability to produce new collagen gradually decline but the existing collagen already within our skin also becomes increasingly fragmented and disorganised.
That’s why microneedling is one of the best anti-ageing treatments on the market — not only does it trigger new collagen production, but it helps to breakdown and remove old collagen that is no longer healthy and strong so that it can be replaced.
While collagen provides structure and strength, elastin gives our skin its ability to stretch and return to its original shape.
The structure and function of elastic fibres change as we age, meaning the skin becomes less resilient.
Combined with collagen loss, this contributes to the gradual loss of elasticity and firmness we associate with ageing skin.
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Slower cell renewal
Young skin is constantly renewing itself in a skin cell cycle (skin cells work their way to the surface and shed away as the die), but this process becomes less efficient as we get older.
Skin cells take longer to regenerate and repair, which can contribute to duller, rougher and less even-looking skin.
Retinoids and glycolic acid are fantastic at increasing skin cell turnover to combat this.
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Reduced hydration
Young skin tends to retain water very effectively, but as we age, changes within the skin can reduce its ability to maintain hydration. Levels and distribution of naturally occurring substances involved in water retention, including hyaluronic acid, also change. The skin barrier can become less efficient too.
Dehydrated or dry skin doesn’t necessarily mean the skin has suddenly developed more permanent wrinkles, but fine lines often appear much more noticeable when the skin lacks water and lipids.
Supporting the skin barrier therefore becomes increasingly important as we age.
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Hormonal changes
Hormones have an important influence on our skin throughout our lives.
For women, this becomes particularly significant during perimenopause and menopause, when oestrogen levels decline.
Oestrogen plays a role in collagen production, skin thickness, hydration and elasticity. As levels fall, the skin may become thinner, drier and less firm. It’s also essential for muscle density, so lower levels can contribute to loss of facial muscle and tone which can contribute to changes in facial shape, loss of volume and overall sagging.
This is one reason some women notice more rapid changes in their skin during this stage of life.
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Changes to facial fat
Not everything we associate with facial ageing is actually caused by changes within the skin.
Underneath our skin are different compartments of facial fat. As we get older, these can lose volume, redistribute and change position.
This can contribute to:
Hollowing around the eyes and temples
Reduced cheek volume
More prominent folds around the mouth
Jowling
Loss of definition around the jawline
This distinction is important because skincare can improve the quality of your skin, but it cannot completely correct structural changes occurring underneath it.
It’s important to be wary of energy-based treatments that tighten skin while reducing fat, such as Mopheus8 and HIFU.
Genetics
Finally, our genetics influence how we age.
Genes can affect characteristics including skin structure, pigmentation, antioxidant defences and aspects of collagen and cellular ageing.
This partly explains why two people of exactly the same age can look very different.
However, genetics are only part of the picture.
That’s where extrinsic ageing becomes particularly important.
What is extrinsic skin ageing?
Extrinsic ageing refers to ageing that is caused or accelerated by environmental and lifestyle factors.
Unlike chronological ageing, many of these factors are potentially modifiable.
In other words, we can’t stop ourselves getting older — but we can reduce some of the external influences that cause our skin to age prematurely.
UV exposure and photoageing
One of the most significant external contributors to premature skin ageing is ultraviolet radiation from the sun. The changes caused by repeated UV exposure are known as photoageing.
UVA and UVB radiation can cause cellular damage and oxidative stress while also contributing to the breakdown and abnormal organisation of collagen and elastin – with UVA able to penetrate deep into the skin and cause the most damage.
Over time, this can lead to:
Fine lines and wrinkles
Loss of firmness and elasticity
Sun spots and uneven pigmentation
Rough or uneven texture
Visible blood vessels
An uneven skin tone
Importantly, sun damage is cumulative, and not restricted to the summer months — UVA rays are present year-round and can pass through clouds and glass.
This is why daily broad-spectrum sunscreen every single day is one of the most important things you can do to prevent premature skin ageing.
Oxidative stress and free radicals
Free radicals are unstable molecules that can damage structures within our cells. Our bodies naturally produce free radicals, but external factors including UV radiation, pollution and cigarette smoke can dramatically increase our exposure.
When free radical production overwhelms our body’s antioxidant defence systems, this creates oxidative stress.
Within the skin, oxidative stress can damage proteins, lipids and DNA and contribute to several processes involved in premature ageing.
This is one reason antioxidants such as vitamin C are so commonly recommended as part of a preventative skincare routine.
Smoking
Smoking is strongly associated with premature skin ageing. Cigarette smoke exposes the skin to numerous chemicals and significantly increases oxidative stress.
Smoking also contributes to the breakdown of collagen and elastin and affects circulation to the skin, resulting in poor skin health and quality.
Over time, this can result in more pronounced wrinkles, loss of elasticity and changes to skin tone and texture.
Pollution
If you live in a city, your skin is regularly exposed to airborne pollutants including particulate matter.
Pollution can contribute to oxidative stress and inflammation within the skin and may play a role in premature ageing and pigmentation.
This doesn’t mean you need an elaborate ‘anti-pollution’ skincare routine — although many modern product formulations are including pollution defence. But you simply need to focus on consistent cleansing, antioxidant skincare and daily sunscreen.
Glycation
A lesser-known process involved in skin ageing is glycation. This happens when sugars react with proteins and form compounds known as advanced glycation end products, or AGEs.
Glycation matters because two of the proteins affected by glycation are collagen and elastin — glycated collagen can become stiffer and less functional, potentially contributing to reduced elasticity and other signs of ageing.
AGEs naturally accumulate as we get older, but factors such as chronically elevated blood sugar and smoking can accelerate the process.
That doesn’t mean eating a slice of cake will suddenly give you wrinkles. As with most areas of skin ageing, it’s our long-term habits, not doing anything in excess and overall health that matter.
Diet and nutrition
There isn’t one magical ‘anti-ageing diet’, but nutrition does influence the health and function of our skin.
The skin requires adequate protein, essential fatty acids, vitamins and minerals to function normally, while fruit and vegetables provide numerous antioxidant compounds.
Rather than focusing on one supposed anti-ageing superfood or supplement, a varied, balanced diet containing plenty of fruit, vegetables, protein and healthy fats is a much more sensible approach. And, as mentioned above, excess sugar should be avoided.
Alcohol
The occasional glass of wine isn’t going to suddenly age your skin. But frequent or excessive alcohol consumption can affect the appearance and health of the skin.
Alcohol can contribute to dehydration and inflammation and may interfere with sleep and nutrition. In some people, it can also exacerbate facial redness.
Poor sleep
Anyone who has looked in the mirror after a terrible night’s sleep knows how quickly sleep can affect our appearance. But sleep isn’t only about how we look the following morning.
Sleep is an important period of recovery and repair throughout the body, and consistently poor-quality sleep may affect skin barrier function and collagen production. Similarly, consistently poor sleep will likely increase cortisol levels which can contribute to inflammation in the body, including the skin.
One bad night’s sleep isn’t going to cause permanent wrinkles. Long-term sleep habits are what matter.
Chronic stress
Long-term psychological stress can affect multiple systems within the body.
Stress hormones and inflammatory signalling can influence the skin barrier, inflammation and repair — and evidence also shows long term stress increases oxidative stress.
Stress can also affect our skin indirectly. When we’re stressed, we’re more likely to sleep badly, eat differently, drink more alcohol or neglect the habits that normally help us look after our skin.
Intrinsic and extrinsic ageing aren’t completely separate
Although dividing skin ageing into intrinsic and extrinsic factors makes it easier to understand, in reality the two processes interact constantly.
For example, collagen naturally declines with age — that’s intrinsic.
But UV exposure can accelerate collagen breakdown — that’s extrinsic.
Oxidative stress naturally occurs as part of normal cellular processes, but UV radiation, pollution and smoking can dramatically increase it.
Your genetics may influence your susceptibility to pigmentation, while years of UV exposure can determine how prominently that pigmentation eventually appears.
So while we can’t control every aspect of ageing, our environment and lifestyle can influence how quickly some of those biological changes become visible.
What skincare actually helps with skin ageing?
If your goal is healthy ageing, you don’t need a complicated 12-step skincare routine.
Antioxidants and sunscreen every morning is your first line of defence. While retinoids are among the best-researched topical ingredients for ageing skin and can help improve fine lines, texture and pigmentation while supporting collagen production.
But skincare is only one part of the picture.
Professional treatments for ageing skin
At BLOOM Facials, we take a skin-first approach to ageing. Microneedling is usually first on the list but, depending on your skin, other treatment options may include chemical peels or hydration boosting facials.
If you’re unsure where to start, book a consultation with me to create a personalised treatment plan for your skin.