7 Reasons Why Your Dark Spots Aren’t Going Away
You’ve invested in brightening serums, you’re wearing SPF and you’ve been consistent with your skincare — so why is your hyperpigmentation still not fading?
Hyperpigmentation can be frustratingly stubborn. And while the right skincare can make a significant difference, sometimes it just won’t be enough to see the results you want.
As an aesthetician specialising in hyperpigmentation (and someone who deals with it myself!), there’s common mistakes I see people making all the time.
From treating the wrong type of pigmentation to inadvertently triggering more melanin production, there are several reasons those dark spots might be sticking around.
1. You don’t know what type of hyperpigmentation you have
Before trying to fade pigmentation, it’s important to understand what you’re actually treating.
Hyperpigmentation is an umbrella term for areas of skin that become darker due to increased melanin. But there are several different types, and they don’t necessarily respond to the same treatments.
Your first step should therefore be identifying what type of pigmentation you’re dealing with and what is triggering it. You can read more about the different types and triggers here.
2. You’re not getting enough UV protection
You can use the best pigmentation products in the world, but if your skin is continually being exposed to UV radiation (aka sunlight — but not just in the summer!), you’re fighting an uphill battle.
UV exposure stimulates melanocytes (the cells responsible for producing melanin), and UVA is the biggest culprit, which happens to be present year-round, not connected to seasons, sunlight or temperatures and able to penetrate through clouds and glass.
For anyone trying to manage hyperpigmentation, I generally recommend a broad-spectrum SPF 50 every day, particularly on the face. And if a product has a UVA rating, always go for the highest (for example, PA++++).
But applying sunscreen in the morning isn’t the whole story.
Make sure you’re applying a generous amount (1/4 teaspoon for the face, ½ for the face, neck and ears), covering commonly missed areas and reapplying regularly — particularly if you’re outside for prolonged periods, sweating or on holiday.
Sun protection isn’t simply about fading the pigmentation you already have. It’s also about reducing the stimulus that tells your skin to produce more pigment.
3. You have melasma and you’re ignoring visible light
If you have melasma, UV protection may not be the only form of light protection worth considering.
Research suggests that visible light can contribute to pigmentation, particularly with melasma or in people with darker skin tones.
This is where tinted sunscreens can be particularly useful.
Tinted sunscreens often contain iron oxides, the pigments responsible for creating their tint. Iron oxides can provide additional protection against visible light that a standard untinted sunscreen may not provide.
That doesn’t mean everyone with a dark spot needs to immediately swap to tinted SPF, and if you wear makeup everyday then you’re covered as iron oxides are what give skin tints and foundations their colour.
4. Your skincare isn’t as savvy as you think
One of the biggest misconceptions around hyperpigmentation is that you simply need a strong “dark spot serum.”
In reality, managing pigmentation usually requires a multi-pronged approach.
Think about your routine as doing three different jobs:
Prevent excessive pigment production with tyrosinase inhibitors.
Protect the skin against triggers such as UV and free radical damage with sunscreen and antioxidants.
Reduce existing pigmentation and encourage more even skin turnover, with chemical exfoliators or retinoids.
That’s why combining complementary ingredients can often be more effective than expecting one ingredient to do everything.
Depending on the individual, ingredients I may consider for a pigmentation-focused routine include:
Azelaic acid
Retinoids
Vitamin C
Tranexamic acid
Niacinamide
Alpha arbutin
Thiamidol
Exfoliating acids such as AHAs
The answer isn’t to use all of them at once. In fact, doing so can lead directly to the next problem.
5. You’re creating new inflammation
When pigmentation won’t budge, the temptation is to throw more at it.
Stronger acids. More exfoliation. Higher-strength retinoids. Scrubs. Peels. Microneedling.
But irritation and inflammation can themselves stimulate pigmentation — particularly if your skin is prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Your skin barrier matters more than you might think.
A pigmentation routine should still include the basics: gentle cleansing, adequate moisturisation, nourishing ingredients and products your skin can actually tolerate.
The strongest routine isn’t necessarily the most effective one.
6. You’re expecting results too quickly
Unfortunately, fading dark spots takes time. Some superficial post-inflammatory marks can gradually fade over a month or two, while deeper pigmentation can take considerably longer.
Often, I find people think a product isn’t working when they simply haven’t given it enough time. Consistency with a well-designed routine for several months will usually do far more for you than switching products every few weeks because you haven’t seen dramatic results.
It also allows us to gradually introduce professional treatments, where appropriate, without unnecessarily overwhelming the skin.
7. Sometimes, pigmentation is just incredibly stubborn
This is probably the least satisfying answer — but it’s an important one.
Melanocytes are remarkably long-living cells when compared to other in the skin, and can remain active for many years. Once pigment-producing pathways have become overactive, particularly with chronic sun exposure or melasma, they can be repeatedly triggered.
Pigment can also be present at different depths within the skin.
Epidermal pigmentation, which sits closer to the surface, is generally easier to target.
Dermal pigmentation sits deeper and can be much more difficult to improve with topical skincare alone.
And then there is melasma.
Melasma is influenced by multiple factors including hormones, genetics, UV radiation, visible light and potentially heat. This helps explain why someone can achieve fantastic improvement over winter only to see pigmentation begin creeping back during summer.
It doesn’t necessarily mean your treatment has failed.
Instead, some forms of hyperpigmentation are better thought of as conditions that need to be managed long term, whether that’s in clinic or at home with a targeted skincare routine.
So, what should you do if your hyperpigmentation won’t fade?
Don’t immediately buy another brightening serum.
More stubborn pigmentation may benefit from professional treatments such as chemical peels or microneedling, alongside a targeted home skincare routine.
At BLOOM Facials, I take a personalised approach, looking at your skin, your type of hyperpigmentation and its potential triggers before recommending a treatment plan.
Struggling with stubborn pigmentation? Book a free skin consultation to create a personalised plan for your skin.