Different Types of Pigmentation: what’s causing your dark spots?

Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common skin concerns — and it’s one I specialise in as an aesthetician, but not all pigmentation is the same.

From dark marks left behind after a breakout to sun spots that gradually appear over time, there are several different types of hyperpigmentation — and understanding which type you have is an important first step towards treating it effectively.

Here are the main types of hyperpigmentation, what causes them and what you can do about them.

What is hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation is the term used to describe areas of skin that appear darker than the surrounding skin – often simply described as ‘dark spots’.

It usually happens when the skin produces or deposits more melanin (the pigment responsible for the colour of our skin, hair and eyes) in a particular area.

Hyperpigmentation can affect all skin tones, although some are more prone to certain types than others. For example, people with medium to deeper skin tones can be particularly prone to developing pigmentation following inflammation or injury to the skin, while people with pale skin are more prone to sun spots.

It’s important to understand what type you have, so that you can understand and address your triggers as well as the best skincare and treatment options for you.

1. Freckles

Yes that’s right. Freckles, or ephelides, are a type of hyperpigmentation – but one that experts like myself aren’t worried about treating. They are simply small areas of increased pigmentation, triggered by genetics combined with sun exposure.

They’re particularly common in people with lighter skin tones (although any skin tone can have them) and often appear across the nose, cheeks, shoulders and other sun-exposed areas in evenly spread clusters. They often become darker and more noticeable during spring and summer when UV exposure increases, before fading again during autumn and winter.

It’s important to note that freckles are not the same as sun spots (which I’ll explain next).

Freckles themselves are harmless and don’t need to be treated. If you love your freckles, keep them! The important thing is still protecting your skin from excessive UV exposure.

2. Sun spots

Those small, flat brown patches that gradually appear on areas regularly exposed to the sun are often called sun spots, age spots or solar lentigines.

They’re particularly common on the face, hands, décolletage, shoulders, arms and back. They develop following cumulative UV exposure, which is why they tend to become more noticeable as we get older (hence why they’re also called age spots).

Unlike freckles, sun spots don’t usually fade significantly during the winter (unless you’re working to treat them, of course). While freckles tend to be small, symmetrically round and evenly spread, sun spots are larger, with an uneven shape and can be appear alone or spread unevenly across an area.

While clinical treatments can’t undo sun damage, they can work to fade sun spots alongside targeted skincare to keep them at bay in-between treatments. However, as they’re a result of long-term sun damage, they can be very stubborn.

BEST AT BLOOM: Korean Lazer Peel

3. Melasma

Melasma usually appears as larger, irregular patches of pigmentation spread across an area, most commonly across the cheeks, forehead and upper lip. Unlike other types of hyperpigmentation, melasma often appears relatively symmetrically on both sides of the face.

Melasma is the most complex type to treat because it isn’t caused by just one thing. Despite being commonly associated with periods of significant hormonal change (like pregnancy and perimenopause), genetics, UV exposure, visible light and heat can all contribute as well.

Melasma is better thought of as a condition that needs to be managed rather than permanently cured. It has a tendency to recur – if you had it in one pregnancy you’re likely to get it in the next, for example - which means long-term maintenance is important.

Treatment may involve pigment-inhibiting skincare, carefully selected professional treatments, rigorous sun protection and avoiding your identified triggers.

For some people with melasma, tinted sunscreen containing iron oxides is particularly useful because visible light can contribute to pigmentation alongside UV.

One of the biggest mistakes with melasma is trying to treat it too aggressively. Irritating or overheating the skin can potentially make pigmentation worse, so treatment needs to be carefully considered. This can mean many popular chemical peels should be avoided, because the acids/chemical exfoliators within them can trigger heat deep within the skin – here at BLOOM we offer a revolutionary ‘cold peel’ that generates little to no heat in the skin.

BEST AT BLOOM: Korean Melasma Peel

4. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)

If you’re left with a brown or dark mark after a spot, skin irritation or cut, you’re probably looking at post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, commonly known as PIH.

Inflammation within the skin can stimulate melanocytes — the cells responsible for producing melanin — causing excess pigment to be produced. PIH is particularly common in darker skin tones because melanocytes can respond more strongly to inflammation.

• PIH can develop after:

• Acne and breakouts

• Picking or squeezing spots

• Eczema or dermatitis

• Insect bites

• Cuts and injuries

• Burns

• Irritation from skincare products

• Certain cosmetic treatments (usually if they’re not suitable for your skin or not performed correctly).

The original inflammation may disappear relatively quickly, but the pigmentation it leaves behind can remain for weeks.

The first priority is controlling whatever is causing the inflammation. If you’re continually developing acne, for example, treating the pigmentation without addressing the breakouts means new marks will continue to appear.

Luckily, PIH tends to be the easiest type of hyperpigmentation to treat (if you see influencers talking about clearing dark spots in just a few weeks, they’re probably dealing with this). As a result at-home skincare can be hugely effective, but nothing will work as fast as a clinical treatment.

BEST AT BLOOM: BioRePeel or Korean Brightening Peel

What about post-inflammatory erythema (PIE)

Not every mark left behind after acne is hyperpigmentation. If your post-acne marks are red, pink or purple rather than brown, you may be dealing with post-inflammatory erythema, or PIE.

PIE is primarily related to changes in the small blood vessels following inflammation rather than excess melanin.

This distinction matters because treatments designed specifically for pigmentation won’t necessarily address redness in the same way.

Some people also experience a combination of PIH and PIE after acne.

Why identifying your type of pigmentation matters

When someone says they have “dark spots”, there can be several completely different processes happening within the skin.

A post-acne mark, melasma and a sun spot might all look like pigmentation — but their causes, triggers and ideal treatment plans aren’t necessarily the same.

This is also why copying someone else’s pigmentation routine from social media doesn’t always work – if they’re dealing with PIH (easiest to treat) and you’re dealing with melasma (hardest to treat), then their routine isn’t going to work for you.

Successful treatment starts with understanding why the pigmentation is developing in the first place.

What makes hyperpigmentation worse?

Although the triggers differ depending on the type of pigmentation, several factors can make dark spots more difficult to manage.

UV exposure is one of the biggest. Even if you’re actively treating pigmentation, repeated UV exposure can stimulate further melanin production.

Visible light can also contribute to pigmentation, particularly in darker skin tones and people prone to melasma.

Inflammation and irritation are another major factor. Over-exfoliating, picking spots or using treatments that are too aggressive for your skin can create additional inflammation and potentially lead to more pigmentation.

And finally, inconsistent treatment can make progress difficult. Pigmentation usually takes time to improve, so consistency is far more important than constantly changing products.

When should you seek professional help for hyperpigmentation?

If you’ve been treating pigmentation at home without seeing improvement, you’re developing new pigmentation frequently or you’re unsure what type of pigmentation you have, a professional skin consultation can help.

At BLOOM Facials, I assess your skin, pigmentation pattern, skincare routine and potential triggers before recommending a treatment plan.

Depending on your skin and the type of pigmentation you’re experiencing, this may include professional chemical peels, microneedling, targeted facials and a personalised home skincare routine.

Our approach is always focused on improving pigmentation without unnecessarily irritating the skin, with treatments selected appropriately for your individual skin tone and concerns.

The bottom line: Hyperpigmentation isn’t one single condition.

• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation usually develops following inflammation or injury.

• Melasma is a complex, recurring pigmentation condition influenced by factors including hormones, UV exposure, visible light and heat.

• Sun spots develop following cumulative sun exposure.

• Freckles are largely genetic but become more noticeable with UV exposure.

And post-inflammatory erythema can look like pigmentation after acne, but is actually related more closely to redness and blood vessels than excess melanin.

Once you understand what you’re dealing with, you can create a much more targeted — and usually much more effective — treatment plan.

If you’re struggling with hyperpigmentation and aren’t sure where to start, book a skin consultation with me at BLOOM Facials for a personalised assessment and treatment plan.